Diving the Monte Bello Islands

I loved my job in the early 2000s, I was a dive guide travelling up and down the Western Australian coast, together with our clients, we would charter boats to dive the remote reefs of the West Australian coast. This, of course was after the 1270 km drive north from Perth in our coaster bus, close to 18 hours driving up the sometimes desolate coast. Usually, a bus trip is much slower than a car trip as the passenger's needs to be taken into account such as multiple stops every two hours, the slower travelling speed of the coaster bus is a real bummer as well.

We made a number of trips to the Monte Bello Islands departing Exmouth at midnight; steaming all night, we arrived in the island group mid morning so after breakfast we would hit the water for the first of many dives. Dampier is a better staging post, however, our charter boat was Exmouth based. The Monte Bello islands are remote, very remote and that's why the British government sought to conduct their 1952 atomic testing program in these islands instead of Britain with a device installed in a decommissioned frigate slightly below the waterline. 1956 saw a further tests conducted on land with one device detonated at ground level and the second device detonated from a tower 31 metres above the ground.

The 25 kt atomic device was to simulate a ship mounted weapon, apparently a grave concern to the British government in the 1950s. Operation Hurricane was the first British atomic test conducted, whilst British scientists worked on the Manhattan Project, the tests were classified and information withheld, they were forced to conduct their own research program much to our disadvantage.

The fallout spread material across the continent as far as Queensland; strong winds at the time of the tests that were supposed to carry the fallout out to sea turned carrying the fallout onshore. Exposure is limited to one hour per day, signs are erected around the various beaches, unfortunately also the beach where we camped also recommended limited exposure.

Between dives, a tight group of people makes the down time fun, this was an excellent tour in a unique and remote part of the world accessed via Exmouth or Dampier, the diving and fishing is excellent. Contrary to popular opinion, there are no double headed fish, nor do they glow in the dark.

Back on board after the pre-breakfast dive, time to organise a feed while the crew (myself) refilled tanks ready for the next dive. I have to really complement the boat's cook, holding pots and pans steady as we navigated seas whilst producing amazing culinary fare under difficult conditions. We ate well with painted crayfish, fresh tuna and other magnificent marine fare caught during the trip.

The islands are now a marine park after the British atomic testing of the 1950s devastated the whole group. Half of Australia was contaminated with fallout, the tests at Maralinga were even more devastating for the environment and local aboriginal population.